What it smells like
The lipid register - long-chain fatty acids, aldehydes and their esters, the C8-C18 range that reads as substance rather than as scent direction. Added 2026-08-31. It was ranked FIRST of everything measured in the 2026-08-17 evidence round (84 panel rows, 995 TGSC, 802 Leffingwell - the strongest attestation of any facet ever proposed here) and declined on one ground only: no family fit it. The `elemental` family, created in v2 for 'the character of matter rather than of a referent', is that fit.
Waxy-Fatty is the lipid itself. Aldehydic is the volatile top a fatty aldehyde throws - which is why the old crosswalk mapping `waxy -> aldehydic 0.5` looked defensible and was still wrong, mapping a base-note substance onto a top-note sparkle. Lactonic is dairy fat gone sweet; this is fat with no sugar in it. Honeyed is what beeswax smells of BESIDES wax.
Notes that load on it
Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.
-
Beeswax
Honey
Base · ~48h
Animal
128
-
Lipstick
Powdery
Floral
Base · ~10h
Prepared
-
Wool
Animalic
Base · ~12h
Animal
-
Quince
Fruity
Floral
Honey
Heart · ~6h
Botanical
93
-
Honeycomb
Honey
Tobacco & Hay
Base · ~36h
Animal
-
Aldehydes
Aldehydic
Musk
Top · ~0.5h
Abstract
755
-
Surf Wax
Tropical
Lactonic
Heart · ~6h
Botanical
-
Massoia
Lactonic
Tropical
Vanilla
Base · ~48h
Botanical
12
-
Tulip
Green
Floral
Heart · ~3h
Botanical
45
-
Cashew
Nutty
Lactonic
Heart · ~8h
Botanical
5
-
Avocado
Green
Heart · ~5h
Botanical
3
-
Pecan
Nutty
Vanilla
Heart · ~5h
Botanical
6
-
Sesame
Nutty
Base · ~48h
Botanical
70
-
Palm Leaf
Green
Tropical
Heart · ~3h
Botanical
37
-
Monoï
Tropical
White Floral
Heart · ~8h
Prepared
28
-
Pittosporum
White Floral
Floral
Heart · ~8h
Botanical
21
-
Camphor
Cooling
Top · ~3h
Molecule
15
-
Brazil Nut
Nutty
Base · ~16h
Botanical
5
-
Buttercup
Heart · ~6h
Botanical
4
-
Tangerine Blossom
White Floral
Floral
Citrus
Heart · ~8h
Botanical
2
Materials that carry it
Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.
| Material | CAS | Terms | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| oleic acid | CAS 112-80-1 | fatty, oily, tallow, waxy | |
| ethyl oleate | CAS 111-62-6 | fatty, oily, tallow, waxy | |
| trans-2-nonen-1-ol | CAS 31502-14-4 | fatty, oily, tallow, waxy | |
| amyl laurate | CAS 5350-03-8 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| decanenitrile | CAS 1975-78-6 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| octanoic acid | CAS 124-07-2 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| neryl butyrate | CAS 999-40-6 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| isoamyl laurate | CAS 6309-51-9 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| sorbitan oleate | CAS 1338-43-8 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| heptyl octanoate | CAS 4265-97-8 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| methyl palmitate | CAS 112-39-0 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| propyl decanoate | CAS 30673-60-0 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| gamma-decalactone | CAS 706-14-9 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| isopentyl octanoate | CAS 2035-99-6 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| delta-tetradecalactone | CAS 2721-22-4 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| octyl 2-furoate | CAS 39251-88-2 | oily, tallow, waxy | |
| trans-2-decenal | CAS 3913-81-3 | fatty, tallow, waxy | |
| 2,4-undecadienal | CAS 30361-29-6 | fatty, oily, waxy | IFRA |
| cis-2-nonen-1-ol | CAS 41453-56-9 | fatty, tallow, waxy | |
| pentadecan-2-one | CAS 2345-28-0 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| (s)-4-nonanolide | CAS 104-61-0 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| 2-nonenyl acetate | CAS 30418-89-4 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| cis-3-hepten-1-ol | CAS 1708-81-2 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| 12-methyltridecanal | CAS 75853-49-5 | fatty, tallow, waxy | |
| 1,1-dimethoxyheptane | CAS 10032-05-0 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| (e)-oct-2-enyl acetate | CAS 3913-80-2 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| (Z)-7,7-diethoxyhept-3-ene | CAS 18492-65-4 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| 6-[(e)-pent-2-enyl]oxan-2-one | CAS 25524-95-2 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| (e,z,z)-trideca-2,4,7-trienal | CAS 13552-96-0 | fatty, oily, waxy | |
| (e)-3-hexenyldihydro-5-methylfuran-2(3h)-one | CAS 70851-61-5 | fatty, oily, waxy |
Showing 30 of 781. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.
Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.
The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.
Anchor terms
A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.
- fatty
- oily
- oily, fatty
- tallow
- waxy
None