Nasaem

Nasaem opens jammy and spiced - plum and pineapple lit by saffron, bergamot and lime, with a whisper of aldehydic sparkle. A powdery floral heart of rose, iris and jasmine softens the spice, leaning classic and slightly old-school. The base is where the original earns its reputation: dark agarwood, cedar and sandalwood laced with patchouli, ambergris, tonka and cypriol. Against the Nabeel original this budget rendering reads a little flatter and more synthetic through the oud, and the deep, resinous drydown that gives the real thing its niche-rivalling weight is trimmed back. It wears as a rich, mysterious woody-rose oriental built for cool weather, evenings and dressier occasions. Projection is moderate and longevity skin-close after the opening hours - the usual trade against a long-lasting attar-style original. As a smell-alike it captures the spiced-fruit-rose-oud signature that made Nasaem a quiet favourite while losing some of the depth and tenacity.