Serge Lutens 2011 EDP

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Vitriol d'oeillet

by Christopher Sheldrake

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Serge Lutens Vitriol d'oeillet is an Eau de Parfum launched in 2011, created by Christopher Sheldrake. Vitriol d'oeillet opens with Allspice, Pepper, Pink Pepper, and Nutmeg, settles into a heart of Wallflower, Lily, Carnation, and Clove, and dries down to a base of Ylang-Ylang. Serge Lutens's Vitriol d'oeillet carries a Statement verdict, a spicy-led wear.

This one's a divisive affair. Expect a sharp, spicy floral that some absolutely adore for its unique character, while others find it a challenging, even 'traumatic' experience. Definitely not a blind buy, but if you're into polarising scents, get stuck in.
What our verdicts mean →
  • Bold
  • Mysterious
  • Classic
  • Sophisticated
  • Edgy
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Vitriol d'oeillet Eau de Parfum bottle

Scent Profile

Composition

Timeline

Showing: Overall Blend
Topas listed
Pepper29%
Pink Pepper29%
Allspice22%
Nutmeg20%
Heartas listed
Carnation31%
Clove30%
Lily23%
Wallflower16%
Baseas listed
Ylang-Ylang100%

Top, heart and base are the brand's own listing, not a timing claim - the industry classifies a note by its character as much as by how fast it fades. Each curve here is modelled from that material's own volatility, so groups can overlap when a house lists long-lasting materials in its heart.

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Performance & Mood

Performance

Longevity
Moderate (4-6h)
Projection
Moderate
Intensity
Moderate

Mood

Mood Energising
Calming
Character Playful
Serious
Sentiment Uplifting
Brooding

When To Wear

Best Seasons

Best For:
Fall Winter

The spicy carnation-and-clove heart over a creamy ylang drydown reads warmest in autumn, the anchor season, with winter a natural extension. Its lightness lets it carry into cooler spring days, but the warm spice keeps it off the summer shelf.

Best Occasions

Best For:
Date
Also Works:
Formal

Intimate sillage and a my-skin-but-better spicy-floral character suit casual wear and date nights well, with enough quiet sophistication for a formal evening. The pointed spice opening makes it a poor fit for the office or sport.

Declarable allergens

We derive these from the materials behind this fragrance's notes, not from the bottle. Each one is likely, not confirmed. The list is partial - the box can name others.

In standard patch-test panels

Other declarable allergens

  • Clove Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Oil from Clove
  • Ylang-ylang Cananga Odorata Flower Extract from Ylang-Ylang

The large name is the everyday one. The small name is the INCI form on the box, so you can compare the two. Reactions differ between people. A patch-test panel is not a ranking of risk. How we derive this

About

Vitriol d'oeillet opens with an unapologetic blast of warm spices - bold cloves and a medley of peppers, especially pink. This fiery introduction mellows slightly into a floral heart dominated by carnation and lily. There's an underlying creamy, almost metallic nuance, with hints of ylang-ylang bringing a subtle sweetness that balances the sharp spice, sometimes leading to a clean, soapy dry down.

Similar

Compare & Pair

Layer

Wear two at once. See what layers well with Vitriol d'oeillet Eau de Parfum - the blends worth trying, and how each one scores.

Complement

Round out the rotation. See what complements Vitriol d'oeillet Eau de Parfum - fragrances that pair with it, worn side by side.

Where to buy

Prices for the United Kingdom ·

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Drawn from community reviews and editor-reviewed before publishing on . See our methodology and disclosure policy.