Chai
EDP · 2012
Robert Piguet
Note Profile
Green neroli-floral leaf oil
Bergamot leaf smells green and bitter, the smell of a crushed citrus twig rather than a bent peel. A true white floral heart of neroli and orange blossom sits inside it and lingers on skin for hours. The citrus top reads as bergamot but thinner and more terpenic than the peel oil, with a softer floral tone beside the neroli. The drydown turns dry and woody, closing on a soapy, clean musk edge.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Bergamot Leaf sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Bergamot Leaf is petitgrain bergamotier, the essential oil steam-distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bergamot tree (Citrus bergamia). It is not the rind oil. Production is small and almost entirely Italian. The composition differs from the fruit peel oil of the same tree: Hermitage Oils reports under 1% limonene in the leaf oil against over 10% in the peel oil.
Perfumers use it as a bridge note. It extends a citrus opening past the point where peel oil has gone, and it joins green, floral and woody material without a seam. Fraterworks sells it for exactly that: building neroli accords and connecting green-floral-woody themes. It is also used where petitgrain bigarade would be too harsh, because a Hermitage Oils buyer describes the bergamot version as rounder and free of the bigarade off-notes.
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Bergamot Leaf appears prominently.
New finds, honest verdicts, and price drops.
No spam. Unsubscribe anytime. See our privacy policy.