Animalic

Costus

Note Profile

Botanical 36 perfumes

About

A root from Saussurea costus - warm, animalic, hair-like and slightly earthy-sweaty. A classical chypre ingredient.

Scent Profile

Costus has a distinctive animalic scent, often described as warm, greasy, oily and reminiscent of unwashed hair or damp fur, with earthy undertones of a damp root cellar. That fatty, waxy solidity is what separates it from lighter animalics, and a sharp, almost metallic edge cuts through it in the first minutes. After ten minutes the animal softens into roasted hazelnut and cocoa nib, with an orris-like powderiness behind them. It can also present subtle woody and leathery nuances as it dries down. The note is persistent and imparts a sensual, lived-in quality to compositions.

ScentWheel

Breadthmedium

EnvelopeBase · ~36h lasting

Family Amber · Musk · Leather, Waxy & Fatty, Woody & Earthy

Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.

What this is made of

dehydrocostus lactone

Principally this

CAS 477-43-0

Costus root oil is prohibited by IFRA and we do not hold it. Dehydrocostus lactone is its characteristic constituent and the closest material we have. A constituent is not the whole extract, so this is its main odorant rather than the oil.

How the layers join

Origin

Costus is derived from the dried roots of Saussurea costus, a plant native to the Himalayan region. The essential oil is typically obtained through steam distillation of the powdered root, though its use is now restricted in some regions due to allergenic compounds.

Usage in Perfumery

Perfumers use costus primarily in the heart or base of animalic, chypre, and oriental fragrances to add depth and a human-like warmth. It blends well with oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum, and floral notes, providing a bridge between earthy and floral elements. Due to regulatory restrictions, it is often replaced by synthetic analogues in modern formulas.