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EDT · 2021
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Note Profile
Ripe gandaria fruit: a juicy mango-apricot ester top with a faint turpentine edge.
Marian Plum smells like a sharp, juicy fruit-ester top, closer to mango than to any temperate plum. A rose-like floral angle threads through the fruity body, with a green-leaf lift on top. A faint turpentine edge runs underneath.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Marian Plum sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Marian plum is the fruit of Bouea macrophylla, a Southeast Asian tree also called gandaria, ma-prang or kundang. Despite the English name it is not a Prunus. It sits in the Anacardiaceae, the cashew and mango family, and it smells like its relatives rather than like a temperate plum. There is no commercial extract. Premiere Peau describes the perfumery note as a reconstruction built from the ripe fruit headspace: methyl and ethyl butanoate on top, a hexanal green lift, a beta-damascenone heart and methyl anthranilate for grape-skin depth.
A heart note used as a regional Southeast Asian alternative to mango. It gives a juicy fruit lift with a floral angle, so it works in tropical fruity-florals and in gourmand accords that want fruit without jam. The note is rare in fine fragrance. Three Fragrantica placements is the whole measured usage.
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Marian Plum appears prominently.
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