Suederal®

Note Profile

Molecule 1 perfume

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About

Suederal is a dry suede note with warm tobacco under it and a smoky, phenolic edge. It is strong. A castoreum-like animalic warmth sits behind the leather and keeps it from reading as a clean suede.

Scent Profile

Suederal smells of dry, leathery suede above everything else, strong and unmistakable. Warm tobacco sits close behind it, with a castoreum-like animalic warmth that keeps the suede from reading as clean. A slight smoky, phenolic edge runs through the middle, and a faint earthy, resinous note shows at the back.

ScentWheel

Breadthbroad

EnvelopeBase · ~30h lasting

Family Amber · Musk · Leather

Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.

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ScentArt

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Materials That Can Make This Note

Suederal® is usually built as an accord, a blend of several materials, rather than made from one.

Origin

Suederal is a leather base from IFF, sold to perfumers as Suederal LT. It is a mixture, not one molecule. IFF's product sheet lists 76% Hercolyn D, a hydrogenated rosin methyl ester, as a solvent, and does not disclose the rest. IFF publishes no odour description, so the descriptions come from suppliers who resell it. IFF has reformulated it, and the 2010/2020 grade is no longer sold.

Usage in Perfumery

Used in the base to build leather and suede accords. It gives the soft side of leather, suede rather than tar. It is very strong. A dose of 0.5 to 3% of the concentrate is usual, and up to 8% in a leather fragrance. It clouds in alcohol, so it goes into the concentrate before the alcohol.