Citrus Oud

Citrus Oud does exactly what its name promises, and the interest lies in how far apart its two halves sit. The opening is unusually well populated for a fragrance of this type, with petitgrain, grapefruit, orange and lemon stacked together. Petitgrain is the one that gives it character, contributing a bitter, green, twiggy edge that stops the citrus reading as a simple cologne accord, while grapefruit adds a slightly sulphurous sparkle. The heart is soft rather than fiery. Coriander and cardamom bring a cool, faintly soapy aromatic quality, nutmeg and pink pepper add gentle warmth, and neroli and lavender bridge the citrus above into the spice, which is a neat piece of construction and keeps the transition from feeling abrupt. Then the base arrives and the fragrance changes register entirely. Oud sits smooth, sweetened and thoroughly domesticated, closer to a resinous woody note than to anything animalic, and it is wrapped in vanilla, amber, cedarwood and musk that round off every edge. The result is warm and slightly gourmand where the top was sharp and green. Longevity is good, and the citrus is long gone by the time the base establishes itself. Of the six, this is the one that works across the widest range of situations and the easiest to wear in daylight.