Escada 1990 EDP

F ££ Acquired

Margaretha Ley

by Michel Almairac

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Escada Margaretha Ley is an Eau de Parfum launched in 1990, created by Michel Almairac. Margaretha Ley opens with Hyacinth, Bergamot, Peach, and Coconut, settles into a heart of Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Iris, and Ylang-Ylang, and dries down to a base of Musk, Sandalwood, and Vanilla. Escada's Margaretha Ley carries an Acquired verdict, a sweet-led wear.

A powerhouse 90s floral that screams bold femininity, Margaretha Ley is a polarising vintage gem. Some find it a bit much, but for those who get it, it's a truly unique, long-lasting scent that demands attention.
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Margaretha Ley Eau de Parfum bottle

Scent Profile

Composition

Timeline

Showing: Overall Blend

Top, heart and base are the brand's own listing, not a timing claim - the industry classifies a note by its character as much as by how fast it fades. Each curve here is modelled from that material's own volatility, so groups can overlap when a house lists long-lasting materials in its heart.

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Performance & Mood

Performance

Longevity
Long (6-10h)
Projection
Strong
Intensity
Strong

Mood

Mood Energising
Calming
Character Playful
Serious
Sentiment Uplifting
Brooding

When To Wear

Best Seasons

Best For:
Fall Winter
Also Works:
Spring Summer

Versatile across every season - no clear seasonal preference from wearers.

Best Occasions

Best For:
Date Formal
Also Works:
Casual

Its exceptional longevity and strong sillage, frequently highlighted in reviews, make it less suited for an office environment where subtlety is key. However, its opulent floral and spicy profile, often described as 'sexy' and 'masterpiece', lends itself beautifully to dates and formal events, though perhaps a touch heavy for everyday casual wear.

Declarable allergens

We derive these from the materials behind this fragrance's notes, not from the bottle. Each one is likely, not confirmed. The list is partial - the box can name others.

Declarable under EU Annex III

  • Bergamot Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil from Bergamot
  • Bergamot Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil from Bergamot
  • Bergamot Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil from Bergamot
  • Clove Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Oil from Clove
  • Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil from Clove
  • Sandalwood Santalol from Sandalwood
  • Synthetic musk Hexamethylindanopyran from Musk
  • Vanillin from Vanilla
  • Ylang-ylang Cananga Odorata Flower Extract from Ylang-Ylang
  • Ylang-ylang Cananga Odorata Flower Extract from Ylang-Ylang
  • Ylang-ylang Cananga Odorata Flower Extract from Ylang-Ylang

The large name is the everyday one. The small name is the INCI form on the box, so you can compare the two. Reactions differ between people. A patch-test panel is not a ranking of risk. How we derive this

About

Margaretha Ley opens with a vibrant burst of syrupy peach and creamy coconut, quickly joined by an intoxicating wave of white and yellow florals. The heart blooms with powdery iris, sweet jasmine, and exotic ylang-ylang, underpinned by a distinctive clove spice. As it settles, a warm, woody base of sandalwood and musk emerges, laced with a comforting vanilla sweetness, leaving a rich, complex trail.

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Complement

Two people, two scents: what sits well beside it when you each wear your own See what pairs well

Where to buy

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Drawn from community reviews and editor-reviewed before publishing on . See our methodology and disclosure policy.