Opium

Opium takes its name directly from the iconic YSL original, and while the note structure is more modern-gourmand than the original's dense, incense-heavy spice bomb, it draws on similar oriental territory with real ambition. The opening pairs pink pepper with orange blossom and pear, described by the brand as unleashing a 'luminous aura' - a spiced, fruity-floral freshness that's brighter and more contemporary than the original Opium's opening, which leaned harder into spice. The heart brings coffee together with jasmine, an increasingly popular pairing in modern niche and designer perfumery that trades on coffee's dark, slightly bitter roasted quality against jasmine's heady floral sweetness - the brand calls it a 'captivating mix', and it's a genuinely interesting, contemporary combination. The base leans into gourmand-oriental richness: vanilla, patchouli, cedar and cashmere wood combine for what the brand describes as an 'enchanting, unique and hypnotic charm' - a warm, sweet, woody finish with real depth. This reads as a modern reinterpretation of the Opium concept rather than a literal note-for-note recreation, updated with contemporary gourmand touches like coffee and cashmere wood. Best suited to cooler weather and evening occasions.