MCM

This is the fragrance MCM launched itself with, arriving in early 2021 as the first release under the house's Inter Parfums licence, and it is built to introduce a brand rather than to challenge anyone. Clement Gavarry opens it on raspberry and apricot, a soft fruit pairing that reads juicy without turning into sweet shop territory, and the apricot in particular gives the start a rounded, slightly nectar-like quality. Peony carries the heart, clean and airy, supported by jasmine and a violet leaf note that adds a cool green snap underneath the flowers. It is a familiar structure and an effective one, the fruity floral shape that has dominated department store counters for a decade, executed with better materials than most. The base is where it feels contemporary. Ambroxan does the heavy lifting, giving that dry, radiant, faintly mineral warmth that reads as modern and helps the scent hover close to skin for hours. Sandalwood, moss and vanilla soften the edges without adding real weight. Wear it in spring and summer, during the day, to the office or casually. It is undemanding and easy to like, which is the point. The bottle, a cognac Visetos handbag with a gold dome, is arguably the bigger selling point than the juice.