New Invention

New Invention opens on a generous strand of saffron, golden and faintly leathery, lifted by a flash of bergamot and banana-sweet ylang-ylang. The heart leans into a full, slightly soapy tuberose softened by powdery iris, echoing the vintage-modern floral character that made Oil Fiction a cult niche release. As it dries, amber, labdanum and a touch of ambroxan settle into a warm, resinous base with sandalwood and a whisper of vanilla. Compared with the original, this version reads more two-dimensional: the saffron-and-tuberose accord is recognisable and pleasant, but the dupe loses some of the layered creaminess and the marathon longevity reviewers prize in the Juliette Has A Gun. Expect moderate projection and a few good hours rather than an all-day trail. For the price it is a confident, sophisticated amber floral that works best in cooler weather and on evenings out, where its sweet, powdery warmth has room to bloom.