Serge Lutens 1999 EDP

U ££ Acquired

Tubereuse Criminelle

by Christopher Sheldrake

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Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle is an Eau de Parfum launched in 1999, created by Christopher Sheldrake. Tubereuse Criminelle opens with Hyacinth, Clove, Nutmeg, and Styrax, settles into a heart of Orange Blossom, Jasmine, and Tuberose, and dries down to a base of Musk and Vanilla. Serge Lutens's Tubereuse Criminelle carries an Acquired verdict, a floral-led wear.

This isn't just a perfume; it's a statement. Tubereuse Criminelle is a masterpiece for the brave, a polarising artistic creation that demands attention. Prepare for a mentholated punch that evolves into a deeply complex, almost menacing floral. Definitely not a blind buy, but endlessly fascinating.
What our verdicts mean →
  • Bold
  • Mysterious
  • Edgy
  • Sophisticated
  • Sensual
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Tubereuse Criminelle Eau de Parfum bottle

Scent Profile

Composition

Timeline

Showing: Overall Blend

Top, heart and base are the brand's own listing, not a timing claim - the industry classifies a note by its character as much as by how fast it fades. Each curve here is modelled from that material's own volatility, so groups can overlap when a house lists long-lasting materials in its heart.

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Performance & Mood

Performance

Longevity
Long (6-10h)
Projection
Strong
Intensity
Strong

Mood

Mood Energising
Calming
Character Playful
Serious
Sentiment Uplifting
Brooding

When To Wear

Best Seasons

Best For:
Spring Fall Winter
Also Works:
Summer

Cool weather favours the mentholic styrax opening and the creamy tuberose body, with fall the strongest fit and winter close behind. Spring works for evening wear when the indolic florals read fresher; high summer can amplify the camphor edge into something medicinal for some skin.

Best Occasions

Best For:
Date Formal

The camphorous tuberose opening is too statement-making for office wear and too cerebral for sport. It excels on dates and formal evenings where the polarising character reads as an artistic signature, and the long musky drydown holds up across a full evening.

Declarable allergens

We derive these from the materials behind this fragrance's notes, not from the bottle. Each one is likely, not confirmed. The list is partial - the box can name others.

In standard patch-test panels

Other declarable allergens

  • Clove Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Oil from Clove
  • Synthetic musk Hexamethylindanopyran from Musk
  • Vanillin from Vanilla

The large name is the everyday one. The small name is the INCI form on the box, so you can compare the two. Reactions differ between people. A patch-test panel is not a ranking of risk. How we derive this

About

It slams you with an icy, camphorous blast, a brutal blend of menthol and spice-laden styrax that almost burns the nostrils. As this audacious opening recedes, a darkly creamy tuberose emerges, interwoven with lush jasmine and a hint of sweet orange blossom. The sharp greenness of hyacinth cuts through, while a subtle base of vanilla, clove, and musk adds a lingering, animalic warmth, like a floral whisper from the shadows.

Similar

Compare & Pair

Layer

Wear two at once. See what layers well with Tubereuse Criminelle Eau de Parfum - the blends worth trying, and how each one scores.

Complement

Round out the rotation. See what complements Tubereuse Criminelle Eau de Parfum - fragrances that pair with it, worn side by side.

Where to buy

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Drawn from community reviews and editor-reviewed before publishing on . See our methodology and disclosure policy.