This discontinued gem is a bona fide masterpiece, provoking cries for its return and commanding exorbitant prices on the secondary market. If you can snag a bottle, you're in for a spicy, ambery ride that splits opinions with its peppery opening but wins hearts with its sophisticated dry-down.

Grim follows Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male Terrible, the sharper, drier, fresher spin on the barbershop classic. The grapefruit-and-pink-pepper opening over dry vetiver and sweet vanilla-amber reads recognisably, though the dupe flattens the contrast and fades faster than the original.