Arctic Bramble

Note Profile

Botanical

About

A berry with a rose inside it. Bright, tart red fruit on opening, then a rosy lift that grows through the first hour and outlasts the fruit on the blotter.

Scent Profile

Fruity leads. The source opens on 'a bright, almost sparkling fruitiness - berry-forward' and the whole note is built to read as a berry. Floral is close behind and it is the claim that defines this note: an 'unmistakable rosy lift that separates it from generic red-fruit accords', which grows more prominent over the first hour and lingers longest of anything on the blotter. The source pushes it hard, saying the fresh fruit's aroma is 'floral and fruity simultaneously' with a clarity compared to fine Bulgarian rose. Sour is the stated tartness, 'like the first bite of a berry that is not quite fully ripe'. Green is the 'faint green stem-like freshness' of the opening, held to a quarter because the source calls it faint and it does not survive the first hour. Below the line, mineral for the 'cold, mineral quality of subarctic air', aromatic_herbal for the thyme-like thread, lactonic and sweet_vanillic for the berry lactones and rounding sweetness the source names.

ScentWheel

Breadthmedium

EnvelopeHeart · ~7h lasting

Family Fruity, Floral

Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.

Origin

Rubus arcticus is a low-growing perennial of Scandinavia, Finland, Russia and northern Canada. The fruit is small, deep red and fragile, ripening from late July into August, and is prized in Finland and Sweden for preserves and for mesimarja liqueur. No commercial essential oil or absolute exists. The perfumery note is a fantasy accord, built from rose oxide, fruity esters and berry lactones.

Usage in Perfumery

A heart note. It gives fresh, tart fruit to a composition and its tartness is used to cut sweeter material, so it turns up in both fruity and gourmand builds where a richer accord needs balancing. The rose facet is the reason to choose it over a generic red-fruit accord.