Indian Study / Santal +++
EDP · 2017
Miller et Bertaux
Note Profile
Curry leaf is the leaf of Murraya koenigii, a small tree in the citrus family, Rutaceae. The oil smells green and spicy, with camphor and cedar-wood tones. It is not the curry spice blend and not the curry plant, Helichrysum italicum.
Green and spicy, like a crushed fresh leaf, with a peppery bite. Camphor and dry cedar tones sit underneath. A faint burnt, sulphurous edge and a light citrus lift come from the fresh leaf. Some oils lean smoky and sweet-balsamic. It carries an aromatic, herbal tone, close to sage or thyme, beside the green and spice.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Curry Leaf sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Perfumers can make Curry Leaf from this natural extract.
Smell words come from published sources.
A given perfume with this note may use this material, or something else.
The oil is steam-distilled or CO2-extracted from the leaves of Murraya koenigii. A solvent-extracted absolute is also made. The oil varies a lot by source. In a study of ten Indian locations, eight gave oils rich in alpha-pinene, beta-pinene or beta-phellandrene. Two gave oils rich in (E)-caryophyllene and alpha-selinene. The fresh leaf owes its typical sulphurous, burnt smell to a trace thiol, 1-phenylethane-1-thiol.
Perfumers use curry leaf in small amounts to add a green, spicy, culinary edge to gourmand, woody and herbal blends. The Good Scents Company gives a maximum of 2% of the fragrance concentrate for the oil and 3% for the absolute.
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Curry Leaf appears prominently.
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