Hatkora Lemon

Note Profile

Botanical

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About

Hatkora lemon is the peel oil of Citrus macroptera, and it is not a lemon. The fruit is a papeda, the same rough thick-skinned branch of Citrus that holds kaffir lime. The oil opens as sharp citrus, then a dry peppery quality comes up under it, and it ends on a warm woody-resinous trace that ordinary citrus oils do not leave. One publisher describes the smell. The chemistry behind that description is corroborated by GC-MS, so the shape of the note is firmer than the wording of it.

Scent Profile

Hatkora lemon is a rough, sharp citrus oil, less clean than true lemon. A dry, peppery spiciness rises underneath the peel smell, and a green bitterness runs alongside it, like unripe grapefruit rind. It ends on a warm, dry woody trace with a faint resinous undertow that ordinary citrus oils do not leave.

ScentWheel

Breadthbroad

EnvelopeTop · ~2h lasting

Family Fresh & Citrus

Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.

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Origin

Citrus macroptera, called Melanesian papeda or wild orange, grown across north-east India, Bangladesh and south-east Asia. The rind is a cooking ingredient before it is a perfume material. Wikipedia notes that 'adding and cooking the rind in the curry gives a unique flavour and aroma', and that the oil of the annamensis cultivar is used in perfumery. Peel oil is dominated by limonene at 55.3%, with beta-caryophyllene at 4.7% and geranial at 3.5% (Njoroge et al., 2012, cited by Premiere Peau). The leaf oil of the same tree is a different material. It runs on beta-pinene, alpha-pinene and p-cymene with almost no limonene, and Premiere Peau calls it 'closer to juniper than to any citrus expression'. This note is the peel oil only.

Usage in Perfumery

A citrus note with 4 Fragrantica placements and no Parfumo attestation. Fragrantica files it under Citrus smells. No Western trade supplier sheet was found for the oil, so most use is likely reconstructed rather than the real distillate. Its job is to give a citrus opening body and a peppery edge that bergamot and yuzu cannot supply.