Healingwood
Note Profile
About
Healingwood is IFF's trade name for purified patchouli alcohol, sold through LMR Naturals. IFF's own compendium calls it "the very heart of patchouli". It is a powerful woody note with an earthy, humid body, a clean camphoraceous top and a mossy background. It is the heavy fraction of patchouli oil isolated and cleaned up, so it reads as patchouli with the crude oil's muddiness taken out.
Scent Profile
Dry_woody leads, and it is the only facet IFF calls powerful: "a powerful woody note". Earthy is the "earthy humid character" the same sentence names next, and it is the facet that separates this material from Clearwood, which had that weight designed out. Cooling_mentholic is the stated "clean camphoraceous top", higher than published patchouli's 0.32 because fractionation is what makes it clean rather than muddy. Mossy_chypre is the stated "mossy background", and it is why the material is used in chypres. The small amber_resinous, creamy_woody and sweet_vanillic values are not claimed by any source. They are held low with wide spreads rather than zeroed, because purified patchoulol is nowhere reported as sweet and a hard zero would assert an absence nobody stated.
ScentWheel
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Origin
Made from Indonesian Pogostemon cablin stems and leaves. The route is hydro-distillation, then fractional distillation and crystallisation, which isolates patchoulol, CAS 5986-55-0. IFF lists it as an essential oil rather than a synthetic, because every molecule in it came off the plant. Only the maker's own page describes its odour. A Basenotes thread on the material returned HTTP 403 and no GC-MS paper on Healingwood specifically was found.
Usage in Perfumery
Use it where a composition needs patchouli's weight without the crude oil's dirt. It is a base material and it holds through the drydown. Clearwood, dsm-firmenich's biotech patchoulol, is the nearest published note and it is not the same smell. Clearwood's own sheet drops the earthy and mossy language for "soft", "clean" and "the creamy warmth of amber".
Similar Notes
Perfumes featuring Healingwood
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Healingwood appears prominently.
No perfumes featuring this note have been reviewed yet. Check back soon.