Madeira
Note Profile
About
Madeira is the smell of a fortified wine that has been deliberately heated and oxidised. Nutty leads. All three sources reach for walnut and almond before anything else. Caramelised sugar sits with it, then dried fruit, then a mocha-chocolate note that only the sweeter styles carry. High acidity keeps it from reading as a syrup. That acidity is what the sources use to separate it from sherry and tawny port.
Scent Profile
Nutty leads because it is the one thing all three sources say first: walnut in the aroma study, 'a pronounced sweet nuttiness' and 'clean fresh light nutty' in the merchant notes, 'nutty oxidation' and 'walnut' in the food writing. Boozy is the referent, a fortified wine of roughly 19% alcohol, and it carries the widest spread here at 0.20 because no source describes the alcohol itself. Sweet_vanillic is caramel and burnt sugar, named by two sources independently as 'toasted caramel' and 'caramel, dried fruits, spice, toast'. Fruity is dried, not fresh: fig, raisin and dried peel. Coffee_cacao comes from the merchant notes on the sweeter bottlings, 'light mocha chocolate' and 'chocolate infected caramel', and it is held at that level because the drier styles do not show it. Sour is the high acidity the sources call out as the trait that separates Madeira from sherry, 'sharper and more persistent than sherry or tawny port'. Honeyed is sotolon's honey facet plus dried fig. Warm_spice and dry_woody sit level, from 'spice, toast and wood notes'. Citrus is dried and baked peel rather than fresh zest. Smoky is the burnt-sugar and volatile-phenol edge. Mineral is the merchant phrase 'crisp minerality'. Earthy, floral, tobacco_hay and amber_resinous are trace.
ScentWheel
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Origin
A fortified wine from the island of Madeira. The wine is heated, either in tanks (estufagem) or slowly under a warm roof (canteiro), which forces the oxidation that makes the style. A peer-reviewed aroma study names sotolon as a powerful odorant of aged Madeira, 'responsible for burnt, curry, honey, nutty, spicy, walnut odors', with volatile phenols from the heating adding toast and wood. Styles run from dry Sercial and Verdelho to sweet Bual and Malmsey, and merchant tasting notes show the drier ones reading cleaner, lighter and only lightly nutty. There is no perfumery raw material. Any Madeira note is an accord built to the drink.
Usage in Perfumery
Used as a gourmand and boozy accent, usually in the heart. It reads as a warmer, nuttier and more toasted version of the fortified-wine idea than port wine, which is fruit-led. It joins to tobacco, dried fruit, oak, cocoa and vanilla. The sour edge gives it lift that a straight caramel accord does not have.
Similar Notes
Perfumes featuring Madeira
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Madeira appears prominently.
No perfumes featuring this note have been reviewed yet. Check back soon.