Romantica Exotica
EDT · 2016
Anna Sui
Note Profile
Poplar Bud is the absolute from the sticky resin that coats unopened poplar buds through the winter. It is a balsamic base material with one quality the other balsams do not have: a sour, fermented edge. Bees gather the same resin to make propolis, and propolis smells largely of poplar bud.
Poplar Bud smells of sticky, balsamic resin, close to church incense or raw propolis. A honeyed sweetness runs underneath, cut by a distinct sour tang like aged wine lees, the trait that sets it apart from other balsams. A tobacco-and-hay depth sits below that, with a rich vanilla note in the top on some batches. It reads darker and more complex than benzoin, and less smoky than labdanum.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Poplar (Populus) Buds sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Perfumers can make Poplar (Populus) Buds from this natural extract.
Smell words come from published sources.
A given perfume with this note may use this material, or something else.
Solvent extraction of the resinous buds of Populus nigra, the black poplar, and Populus balsamifera, the balsam poplar. The buds are picked in early spring before they open. Sources give eastern Europe, western Europe and North America; Mountain Rose Herbs sells theirs as Populus nigra. The old name for the buds is Balm of Gilead.
A base note and a strong fixative. It anchors amber, balsamic, incense and tobacco accords and works in the base of chypre structures. Perfumers reach for it in place of benzoin or tolu balsam when a balsam is wanted that is not clean: the sour, fermented tang is what it adds that they cannot.
Perfumers known for using Poplar (Populus) Buds include
Nicholas Nilsson
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Poplar (Populus) Buds appears prominently.
EDT · 2016
Anna Sui
EDP · 2021
AllSaints
EDP · 2016
Clean
EDP · 2013
D.S. & Durga
EDT · 2017
Clean
EDP · 2016
Room 1015
Extrait · 2020
Pineward Perfumes
EDP · 2024
January Scent Project
Extrait · 2015
House of Matriarch
EDP · 2022
Marissa Zappas
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