Sekushi No 7

Sekushi is the perfume that made Lengling's name, and the reason is the contrast at its centre. It opens sweet and almost playful, with orange, raspberry and apricot arranged around a fairground candyfloss accord that is unmistakably sugary. On its own that would be a gourmand, and a very literal one. What stops it is the leather sitting directly underneath. Within minutes a dark, slightly tarry leather note pushes up through the sugar, joined by olibanum that adds a dry, resinous smoke and by patchouli that grounds the whole thing. Rosewood and lily of the valley act as connective tissue, keeping the fruit from separating out from the leather. The result is a sweet-and-smoky tension rather than a blend, and the two halves keep trading places on the skin across a wear. Projection is the strongest in the range, generous for the first two or three hours, and longevity at extrait strength runs comfortably past eight. A light hand is genuinely advisable. It is an evening scent above all, and best in autumn and winter when the leather and incense have room. It carries a date or a night out easily, and is far too loud and too sweet for an office.