Marissa Zappas

New York indie perfumer creating poetic, nostalgic scents with historical and cinematic references.

About Marissa Zappas

Marissa Zappas is an independent perfumer, scent designer, and poet based in New York City, where she has worked as a freelance perfumer since 2017. She began working in fragrance in 2015 while studying anthropology and the history of cemetery construction, and launched her namesake brand in 2021. Her background in anthropology and academic research into perfume, attitudes toward death, and cemetery design informs a distinctly conceptual approach to scent, often rooted in historical, literary, and cinematic references.

Zappas learned perfumery at Givaudan, first as a receptionist and later as a lab apprentice to master perfumer Olivier Gillotin, before moving fully into independent practice. Her work is characterized by a strong interest in avant garde perfumes of the early twentieth century and a fascination with memory, nostalgia, and the intersection of fantasy and everyday life. Collections such as Redamance, launched in 2022, build olfactive portraits of overlooked women from history, including Imperia La Divina, Ching Shih, and Queen Nzinga, with compositions that reflect each figure’s time period and environment.

Many of her perfumes draw from hyper specific inspirations: Technicolor films, gothic narratives, funereal rituals, vintage Hollywood boudoirs, and natural phenomena such as petrichor and damp earth alongside deliberately artificial notes like balloons and candy. Signature creations frequently cited by retailers and reviewers include Flaming Creature, Maggie the Cat is Alive! I’m Alive!, Annabel’s Birthday Cake, Violette Hay, Lilac Dream, and The Sun Card. Through limited production, collaborations with artists and writers in New York, and a focus on narrative perfumery, Marissa Zappas has developed a cult following among niche fragrance enthusiasts who seek poetic, character driven scents rather than mainstream formulas.

In addition to her main line, Zappas co founded Gumamina, a side project with fellow independent perfumer Courtney Rafuse of Universal Flowering, which launched in December 2023. She continues to offer custom scent design, including personal fragrances, candles, and home goods, while expanding her catalog through small batch releases that often debut via sample bags and specialty retailers.

At a Glance

The Brand

Founded 2021
Founder Marissa Zappas
Country United States
Category Indie

Scent Personality

Sweetness
Moderate
Freshness
Mild
Boldness
High
Uniqueness
Very High

Worth It?

Price £££
Value
Moderate
Accessibility
Moderate

Scent DNA

Floral Gourmand Resinous Musky Woody
  • Marissa Zappas scents are narrative heavy and often built around a central motif or historical or cinematic reference, which gives them a strong sense of character
  • Her style mixes vintage leaning florals, romantic gourmand touches, and unusual textural notes like damp earth, incense, and rubbery or candy like accords, resulting in perfumes that feel intimate, nostalgic, and slightly offbeat

Typical Performance

Longevity
Long
Projection
Moderate

Positioning

A indie, premium house known for floral compositions.

How It Compares

Who It's For

Best For

  • Artistic everyday wear
  • Evening and special occasions
  • Cool weather and transitional seasons
  • Collectors of narrative scents
  • Fans of floral and gourmand niche perfumes

Strengths & Weaknesses

Strengths

  • Highly distinctive concepts and storytelling
  • Thoughtful use of florals and gourmands without resorting to generic sweetness
  • Strong alignment between note choices and historical or cinematic themes
  • Cult appeal among niche fragrance enthusiasts

Weaknesses

  • Availability can be limited and often relies on specialty stockists or direct purchase
  • Some compositions lean eccentric or nostalgic in a way that may not suit mainstream tastes
  • Price point is higher than mass market given the indie positioning and small scale production

Brand Evolution

Zappas’ work has evolved from early small scale, apartment based production and sample bag launches into more structured collections and collaborations while retaining a hand crafted, indie sensibility. The 2022 Redamance collection marked a clear move toward historically grounded olfactive portraits, and the 2023 Gumamina project shows an interest in playful side concepts with other independent perfumers. As her profile has grown through press coverage and niche retailers, the brand has expanded the number of fragrances while keeping the focus on romantic, esoteric themes and careful raw materials.

Quick Verdict

This is a literary, highly conceptual indie brand for people who want perfume to feel like a story, not a background blur. If you prefer straightforward, crowd pleasing designer scents, the line will likely feel too eccentric and introspective.

Perfumers

Marissa Zappas Perfumes