Don't let the name fool you - Kilian's Amber Oud has precious little oud, if any. Instead, it's a buttery, ambery vanilla with a surprisingly delicate profile. While it's a love for many, the price-to-performance ratio is a common grievance.

No.522 goes straight for MFK's Grand Soir formula - amber, vanilla and benzoin stacked into a golden, resinous glow. It arrives sweeter and more one-dimensional than the original's slow-building richness, with less of the lavender-labdanum balance that keeps Grand Soir from tipping into simple gourmand territory, but the amber-vanilla core is a faithful match.