Mar Eterna
Extrait · 2023
Ramón Béjar
Note Profile
Conifer is a category, not a material. It is the shared ground of pine, fir, spruce and cypress rather than one traded oil. What they share is a green-woody freshness on top and an earthy, balsamic warmth underneath, turning rounder and slightly sweeter as it dries down. It is deliberately broader and flatter than any single member, because the members disagree with each other.
Conifer smells green and woody at once, the shared scent of pine, fir, spruce and cypress needles. A resinous, balsamic sweetness runs through it, like sap from a Siberian pine. Underneath sits an earthy, forest-floor warmth, and a cool, eucalyptus-like edge from the needle oils. A peppery, spicy-green note from cedar and cypress finishes it, turning a little rounder and sweeter as it dries down.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Conifer sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
No single raw material is sold as conifer. The term covers the needle oils, twig oils, resins and absolutes of the coniferous trees. Versatile Paris breaks the same label into materials with genuinely different profiles: Siberian pine as resinous, eucalyptus-like and fresh; cypress essence as turpentine, spicy and green; fir balsam absolute as balsamic, woody and wood-fired; cedar as waxy and peppery. The French Society of Perfumers does not count coniferous-terpenic among its six original families.
A base and a foundation. The category supplies forest character to fougeres, masculine woody accords and anything reaching for cold air and evergreen. 29 Fragrantica placements. Parfumo does not carry the term at all, which fits a label used as a category rather than an ingredient list entry.
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Conifer appears prominently.
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