Les Naturelles: Fleur de Vanille
EDT · 2008
Fragonard
Note Profile
Vanilla Blossom is the living flower of the vanilla orchid. It is not the cured pod and it does not smell of vanilla. Vanillin is made during curing of the fruit, so the flower carries none of it, and the one published human-nose report of the flower calls it grassy, or sour and metallic.
Vanilla Flower
Vanilla Blossom smells green, of freshly cut grass. The observers recorded a second reading of the same flower as sour and metallic, so a thin volatile acidity and a cold mineral edge sit under the green. Alpha-pinene at 62 per cent of the headspace gives a dry, terpenic, pine-resin backbone, and eucalyptol adds a cool, camphoraceous lift. It carries a dry, woody note, like bare timber, under the green and the cool lift.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Vanilla Blossom sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
The flower of Vanilla planifolia, a climbing orchid grown in Madagascar, Mexico, Indonesia and Tahiti. Each bloom is greenish-yellow, about 5 cm across, and lasts one day. There is no commercial extract. What is known of the odour comes from headspace GC-MS of unpollinated flowers, which found 25 compounds led by alpha-pinene at 62.3 per cent and eucalyptol at 6.3 per cent.
There is no material to buy, so any use is a reconstruction. The note is worth having because it says what the flower is not: a perfumer reaching for vanilla blossom is reaching for a green, terpenic, faintly sour top, not for a second helping of the base.
Perfumers known for using Vanilla Blossom include
Paolo Terenzi, Marie du Petit Thouars, and Vincent Ricord
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Vanilla Blossom appears prominently.
EDT · 2008
Fragonard
EDP · 2014
Jeanne Arthes
EDP · 2010
Majda Bekkali
EDC · 2024
Avatim
EDT
Bottega Verde
EDT · 2008
Molinard
Extrait · 2021
Bortnikoff
EDT · 2022
Yves Rocher
EDP · 2018
Giardino Benessere
EDP · 2020
Giardino Benessere
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