501

Open the bottle and the first thing you meet is black truffle, earthy and a little mysterious, with ylang-ylang, bergamot and blackcurrant keeping the start from feeling closed. There is a dark, glossy quality from the first spray. In the heart, orchid and lotus wood bring a smooth floral body. The base is where 501 is at its richest. Vanilla, chocolate and amber warm it through, patchouli and vetiver give it an earthy spine, and sandalwood and incense add a slow, smoky finish. The house sells it as unisex, and the balance of florals, woods and sweet notes supports that. It suits cool evenings, dinners and nights out, and it is strong enough to hold its own under winter coats and scarves. One or two sprays are enough for an eau de parfum of this weight. It sits close at first, then spreads steadily as the chocolate and vanilla warm on the skin. Bottom line: a dark, velvety orchid with a sweet, earthy base for anyone who likes florals with depth.