Vanilla Delice

Vanilla Delice sounds like it will be a flat sugar bomb and is not, which is the pleasant surprise of the range. Bergamot and black pepper open it, and the pepper is the decision that makes the fragrance work: it puts a dry, faintly spicy edge on the first few minutes that stops the vanilla arriving unopposed. Bergamot handles the brightness and fades quickly. The heart is where the gourmand promise is delivered, and it is a fruity vanilla rather than a bakery one. Strawberry leads, sweet and slightly jammy, honeysuckle adds a light nectar-like floral, and sandalwood and vanilla appear in the heart rather than waiting for the base, which gives the middle stretch real body. It is a well-judged structure for something at this price. The base is brief and modern: ambroxan and musk, with the ambroxan supplying most of the projection and a clean, slightly mineral warmth that keeps the drydown from turning powdery. The result reads more like a contemporary fruity vanilla than a traditional oriental, and it is easier to wear during the day than most vanillas. Performance is typical of the 30 mL travel format at three to four hours. Best in autumn and winter, though the pepper and bergamot keep it viable in spring. The most competent composition among the brand's mini sprays.