Serge Lutens 1998 EDP

U ££££ Acquired

Muscs Koublai Khan

by Christopher Sheldrake

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Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan is an Eau de Parfum launched in 1998, created by Christopher Sheldrake. Muscs Koublai Khan opens with Cumin, Civet, and Costus, settles into a heart of Rose, Castoreum, and Labdanum, and dries down to a base of Musk, Patchouli, Ambrette, and Ambergris. Serge Lutens's Muscs Koublai Khan carries an Acquired verdict, a musky-led wear.

Muscs Koublai Khan is a divisive scent, celebrated as a masterpiece by some and reviled as a foul beast by others. It's an infamous animalic that demands confidence and a thick skin. Definitely not a blind buy, unless you're a true fragrance adventurer.
  • Bold
  • Sensual
  • Edgy
  • Mysterious
  • Luxurious
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Muscs Koublai Khan Eau de Parfum bottle

Profile

Composition

Timeline

Showing: Overall Blend

Accords

Musky
100%
Amber
60%
Animalic
60%
Powdery
60%
Floral
45%

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Performance

Longevity
Long (6-10h)
Projection
Moderate
Intensity
Strong

Mood

Mood Energising
Calming
Character Playful
Serious
Sentiment Uplifting
Brooding

When To Wear

Best Seasons

Best For:
Fall Winter

A cold-weather scent. The animalic civet opening and warm, powdery labdanum-musk drydown read thick on cool skin; wearers consistently describe it as intimate winter and autumn wear, with the rose-castoreum heart reading especially well in colder months.

Best Occasions

Best For:
Date
Also Works:
Formal

Its primal animalic character and close, intimate sillage make it a poor office or sport choice but a striking pick for date nights and cool-weather evenings. The civet and cumin opening is too provocative for casual daytime wear; the rose-musk body reads sensual and personal rather than crowd-pleasing.

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Layer

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Complement

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About

This is a primal, untamed musk, heavily animalic with civet taking centre stage. It's softened by a powdery, amber warmth, but this doesn't tame its wild core. Experience a deep, musky scent, almost feral, with underlying hints of spicy amber that wrap you in a luxurious, if unconventional, embrace. It evokes raw sensuality and a captivating, challenging aura.

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