What it smells like
Mint, eucalyptus, camphor. This facet acts on the trigeminal nerve as much as on the olfactory one. That is why it feels cold in the nose and the back of the throat instead of merely smelling of something cold.
Cooling is a sensation. Aquatic is an image. A menthol crystal has almost no aquatic character and still feels like ice.
menthol - and in the same register, peppermint, eucalyptus.
Notes that load on it
Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.
-
Menthol
Top · ~3h
Molecule
-
Eucalyptus
Top · ~2h
Botanical
189
-
Camphor
Waxy-Fatty
Top · ~3h
Molecule
15
-
Ice
Mineral
Aquatic
Top · ~1h
Mineral
56
-
Peppermint
Top · ~2h
Botanical
21
-
California Bay Laurel
Aromatic
Top · ~2h
Botanical
-
Corn Mint
Top · ~2h
Botanical
-
Saro
Aromatic
Top · ~3h
Botanical
-
Kunzea
Green
Fresh Spice
Aromatic
Heart · ~4h
Botanical
1
-
Camphor Tree
Dry Wood
Heart · ~4h
Botanical
-
Plai
Aromatic
Fresh Spice
Earthy
Heart · ~4h
Botanical
-
Pennyroyal
Aromatic
Green
Top · ~2h
Molecule
-
Aspic
Aromatic
Heart · ~3h
Botanical
1
-
Borneol
Heart · ~4h
Molecule
-
White Sage
Aromatic
Heart · ~5h
Botanical
-
Rosemary
Aromatic
Top · ~3h
Botanical
857
-
Buchu
Sulphurous
Aromatic
Fruity
Heart · ~4h
Botanical
26
-
Cedar Leaf
Aromatic
Heart · ~6h
Botanical
18
-
Fragonia
Aromatic
Citrus
Heart · ~4h
Botanical
1
-
Sugandha Kokila
Warm Spice
Fruity
Heart · ~8h
Botanical
1
Materials that carry it
Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.
| Material | CAS | Terms | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| d-camphor | CAS 464-49-3 | camphoreous, cooling, mentholic, minty | Declarable |
| beta-pinene | CAS 127-91-3 | camphoreous, cooling, eucalyptus, minty | Declarable |
| alpha-fenchol | CAS 512-13-0 | camphoreous, cooling, eucalyptus, minty | |
| dihydrocarveol | CAS 619-01-2 | camphoreous, cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| 1,4-cineole | CAS 470-67-7 | camphoreous, cooling, eucalyptus, minty | |
| (-)-menthone | CAS 14073-97-3 | camphoreous, cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| 2-sec-butylcyclohexanone | CAS 14765-30-1 | camphoreous, cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| 5-methyl-2-propan-2-ylcyclohexan-1-one | CAS 10458-14-7 | camphoreous, cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| menthol | CAS 1490-04-6 | cooling, mentholic, minty | Declarable |
| camphene | CAS 79-92-5 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| myrtenal | CAS 564-94-3 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| myrtenol | CAS 515-00-4 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| l-menthol | CAS 2216-51-5 | cooling, mentholic, minty | Declarable |
| isopulegol | CAS 7786-67-6 | cooling, eucalyptus, minty | |
| neomenthol | CAS 3623-51-6 | cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| pinocarveol | CAS 5947-36-4 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| theaspirane | CAS 36431-72-8 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| dihydrocarvone | CAS 7764-50-3 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| menthyl acetate | CAS 16409-45-3 | cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| camphene hydrate | CAS 465-31-6 | camphoreous, mentholic, minty | |
| sabinene hydrate | CAS 15537-55-0 | cooling, eucalyptus, minty | |
| isobornyl formate | CAS 1200-67-5 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| l-menthyl acetate | CAS 2623-23-6 | cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| isopulegyl acetate | CAS 57576-09-7 | camphoreous, cooling, mentholic | |
| 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexanol | CAS 116-02-9 | cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| 2-(3-methylbut-2-en-2-yl)oxane | CAS 7392-19-0 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| (+)-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-norbornanone | CAS 4695-62-9 | camphoreous, cooling, mentholic | |
| 5-but-2-en-2-yl-2,2-dimethyloxolane | CAS 7416-35-5 | camphoreous, cooling, minty | |
| N,2,3-trimethyl-2-propan-2-ylbutanamide | CAS 51115-67-4 | cooling, mentholic, minty | |
| N-ethyl-5-methyl-2-propan-2-ylcyclohexane-1-carboxamide | CAS 39711-79-0 | cooling, mentholic, minty |
Showing 30 of 308. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.
Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.
The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.
Anchor terms
A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.
- camphor
- camphoraceous
- camphoreous
- cool,cooling
- cooling
- eucalyptus
- mentholic
- mint
- minty
- minty, peppermint
None
The rest of Fresh & Citrus
The other facets in this family. A note can load on any of them at the same time as this one, so they are neighbours rather than alternatives.