Coeur De Noir
Eau de Parfum
BeauFort London
Acquired
BeauFort London
Dark, smoke-driven British niche perfumes rooted in maritime and historical themes.
About BeauFort London
BeauFort London was founded in 2013 by musician Leo Crabtree, originally as a small project making a handmade moustache wax in billet aluminium cases before pivoting fully into fragrance. The brand takes its name partly from the Beaufort wind scale and partly from the French words "beau" and "fort" (beauty and strength), reflecting Crabtree’s interest in the power of the elements and the tension between elegance and force.
After early experiments with perfumed grooming products, Crabtree turned his focus to perfume and, in 2015, launched the first fragrance collection, Come Hell Or High Water, with three scents: Tonnerre, Coeur de Noir and Vi et Armis. These perfumes draw heavily on British maritime history, warfare and trade, often exploring the darker side of those themes. According to the brand’s own story, BeauFort’s compositions are literally built around the etymology of "perfume" as "per fumum" or "through smoke", using smoke in various forms as a structural idea.
BeauFort London has since expanded into three main collections: Come Hell Or High Water (2015), Revenants (2017) and Force Majeure (2024), alongside room fragrances and special editions. The scents are known for unusually high concentrations of unconventional materials, particularly tarry, smoky and salty facets that can be challenging or polarising. Crabtree collaborates with professional perfumers to translate specific historical and literary references into dense, atmospheric compositions that often reference sea voyages, naval battles and British folklore.
At a Glance
The Brand
Founded
2013
Founder
Leo Crabtree
Country
United Kingdom
Category
Niche
Scent Personality
Worth It?
Scent DNA
Smoky
Resinous
Marine
Woody
Spicy
- BeauFort London fragrances are instantly recognisable for their heavy use of smoke, tar, incense and sea-salt effects, often paired with dense woods and resins
- They lean into abrasive, sometimes confrontational accords that reference gunpowder, stormy seas, leather and damp timbers rather than conventional prettiness
- Even the comparatively quieter scents tend to feel atmospheric, autumnal and story-driven rather than abstract or purely decorative
Top Notes
Heart Notes
Typical Performance
Longevity
Long
Projection
Strong
Positioning
A niche, luxury house known for smoky compositions.
How It Compares
- → Edgier and smokier than Dior
- → More historically and nautically themed than Penhaligon's
- → Generally darker and denser than Jo Malone London
- → Less oud-focused but similarly provocative as Nasomatto
Who It's For
Best For
- Cold weather wear
- Evening and nightlife
- Collectors and fragrance enthusiasts
- Story-driven wearing and sampling
- Occasional statement use in creative workplaces
Strengths & Weaknesses
Strengths
- Very distinctive smoky and maritime signatures
- Cohesive storytelling tied to British history and literature
- Strong performance and concentration
- Appeals to niche collectors who want bold, challenging scents
Weaknesses
- Too smoky and abrasive for many casual users
- Limited versatility in hot climates or office settings
- Higher price point compared to mainstream designer options
Brand Evolution
BeauFort London began with a single grooming product before shifting entirely to fragrance, crystallising its identity with the 2015 Come Hell Or High Water collection built around smoke and seafaring narratives. Subsequent lines like Revenants and Force Majeure have broadened the thematic scope to ghosts of history, coastal landscapes and technical feats of navigation, while retaining the core signatures of darkness, salt, and combustion. Over time, the compositions have become more nuanced and textural but they have not softened into mainstream territory; the brand continues to prioritise atmosphere and impact over universal appeal.
Quick Verdict
This is a brand for people who enjoy challenging, smoky and historically themed compositions, not for those seeking easy compliments. If you want perfume that feels like storms, gun decks and haunted coastlines, BeauFort London is worth serious exploration.
