Anubis
Eau de Parfum
Papillon Artisan Perfumes
Acquired
Papillon Artisan Perfumes
British indie perfume house known for dense, artistic, handcrafted compositions.
About Papillon Artisan Perfumes
Papillon Artisan Perfumes is a British fragrance house founded by Liz Moores and launched in 2011. The brand started with a debut trio - Anubis, Tobacco Rose, and Angelique - and was built around Moores' self-taught approach to perfumery and hands-on formulation process.
Papillon's stated focus is on handcrafted perfumes made in small batches, with compositions shaped by historical, romantic, literary, natural, and artistic influences. The brand is known for dense, characterful perfumes that often lean into resin, leather, tobacco, florals, incense, and animalic texture rather than easy freshness. Its early reputation came from a small but highly regarded launch that quickly drew attention for depth and originality.
Over time, Papillon has remained closely tied to Moores as founder, perfumer, and creative lead. The house keeps an artisan, limited-production identity rather than expanding into a broad commercial designer-style range, which has helped preserve its distinct, idiosyncratic style.
At a Glance
The Brand
Founded
2011
Founder
Liz Moores
Country
United Kingdom
Category
Indie
Scent Personality
Worth It?
Scent DNA
Amber
leather
resinous
floral
tobacco
incense
- Papillon scents are usually rich, concentrated, and textural, with a deliberate old-world feel rather than a polished mainstream one
- The house tends to build multi-layered compositions around dark florals, smoke, resin, and animalic nuance, so the results can feel intense and uncompromising
- There is a strong artisanal signature across the line because Liz Moores both creates and compounds the fragrances
Typical Performance
Longevity
Long
Projection
Strong
Positioning
A indie, luxury house known for amber compositions.
How It Compares
- → Darker and more resinous than Diptyque
- → More artisanal and less polished than Maison Francis Kurkdjian
- → More intense and challenging than Jo Malone London
- → Less commercial and more gothic than Penhaligon's
Who It's For
Best For
- Experienced niche fragrance wearers
- Fans of dark florals and resins
- Cool weather
- Evening wear
- Collectors who value originality
Strengths & Weaknesses
Strengths
- Distinctive artistic identity
- High concentration and depth
- Strong use of naturalistic materials and texture
- Consistent auteur signature
Weaknesses
- Can feel too dense for casual wear
- Limited mainstream accessibility
- Often too dark or animalic for fresh-scent fans
Brand Evolution
Papillon began with a very small launch and has stayed close to that artisan model rather than moving toward mass expansion. The early identity was built on dense, complex perfumes, and later releases have continued to emphasize originality, texture, and narrative ideas. The brand has evolved by refining its range, not by softening its style for broader market appeal.
Quick Verdict
Papillon is not built for easy crowd-pleasing. If you want perfume with character, density, and a clearly personal signature, it delivers; if you want airy, safe, office-friendly scents, look elsewhere.
