What it smells like
Coumarin is the hinge: new-mown hay, cut grass drying in the sun, and the sweetness of cured tobacco. Warm, dry, gently sweet, and as much a foundation of the fougere as lavender is.
Tobacco touches Vanilla through coumarin's sweetness and Leather through cured-leaf dryness. That is why the two so often appear together.
tobacco - and in the same register, straw, cuban cigar.
Notes that load on it
Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.
-
Tobacco
Honey
Leather
Fruity
Base · ~30h
Botanical
1,873
-
Hay
Vanilla
Powdery
Fruity
Base · ~36h
Botanical
262
-
Flouve
Vanilla
Honey
Aromatic
Base · ~34h
Botanical
4
-
Liatrix
Vanilla
Amber
Aromatic
Base · ~30h
Botanical
2
-
Straw
Vanilla
Base · ~24h
Abstract
5
-
Sweet Clover
Vanilla
Base · ~30h
Botanical
2
-
Cuban Cigar
Dry Wood
Leather
Base · ~28h
Prepared
-
Pipe Tobacco
Honey
Vanilla
Base · ~26h
Botanical
-
Woodruff or Galium Odoratum
Vanilla
Green
Heart · ~8h
Botanical
2
-
Burley Tobacco
Vanilla
Base · ~36h
Prepared
-
Cigar
Dry Wood
Smoky
Base · ~26h
Botanical
-
Sweet Grass
Vanilla
Fruity
Base · ~30h
Botanical
11
-
Honeyed Tobacco
Honey
Vanilla
Base · ~24h
Prepared
-
Virginia Tobacco
Fruity
Vanilla
Base · ~22h
Botanical
-
Blond Tobacco
Honey
Base · ~24h
Botanical
9
-
Cherry Tobacco
Fruity
Vanilla
Base · ~14h
Prepared
-
Coumarin
Vanilla
Base · ~36h
Molecule
357
-
Immortelle
Vanilla
Warm Spice
Honey
Base · ~24h
Botanical
346
-
Malt
Vanilla
Nutty
Heart · ~4h
Prepared
39
-
Cereals
Nutty
Vanilla
Heart · ~6h
Prepared
25
Materials that carry it
Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.
| Material | CAS | Terms | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| boronal | CAS 3155-71-3 | hay, tobacco | |
| alpha-amylcinnamyl isovalerate | CAS 7493-80-3 | hay, tobacco | |
| coumarin | CAS 91-64-5 | hay | Declarable IFRA |
| kephalis | CAS 36306-87-3 | tobacco | |
| safranal | CAS 116-26-7 | tobacco | IFRA |
| quinoline | CAS 91-22-5 | tobacco | IFRA |
| isophorone | CAS 78-59-1 | tobacco | IFRA |
| beta-pinene | CAS 127-91-3 | hay | Declarable |
| damascenone | CAS 23696-85-7 | tobacco | Declarable IFRA |
| sclareolide | CAS 564-20-5 | tobacco | |
| theaspirane | CAS 36431-72-8 | tobacco | |
| valeric acid | CAS 109-52-4 | tobacco | |
| benzyl eugenol | CAS 57371-42-3 | hay | |
| dihydrocarvone | CAS 7764-50-3 | hay | |
| isolongifolone | CAS 23787-90-8 | tobacco | |
| isomintlactone | CAS 13341-72-5 | tobacco | IFRA |
| gamma-damascone | CAS 35087-49-1 | tobacco | IFRA |
| beta-cyclocitral | CAS 432-25-7 | tobacco | |
| citronellic acid | CAS 502-47-6 | tobacco | |
| isoamyl geranate | CAS 68133-73-3 | hay | |
| methyl nicotinate | CAS 93-60-7 | tobacco | |
| phenylacetic acid | CAS 103-82-2 | tobacco | |
| p-tolyl octanoate | CAS 59558-23-5 | hay | |
| amyl phenylacetate | CAS 5137-52-0 | tobacco | |
| dihydromintlactone | CAS 92015-65-1 | tobacco | |
| gamma-caprolactone | CAS 695-06-7 | tobacco | |
| gamma-heptalactone | CAS 105-21-5 | hay | |
| butyl phenylacetate | CAS 122-43-0 | hay | |
| gamma-valerolactone | CAS 108-29-2 | tobacco | |
| megastigmatrienone a | CAS 13215-88-8 | tobacco |
Showing 30 of 103. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.
Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.
The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.
Anchor terms
A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.
- hay
- tobacco
- coumarinic
- tonka
This facet rests on 2 direct terms, which makes it one of the more likely to move when the crosswalk is revised or a better source is found. It is flagged here rather than presented as equal in weight to a facet held up by nine.
The rest of Amber · Musk · Leather
The other facets in this family. A note can load on any of them at the same time as this one, so they are neighbours rather than alternatives.