Italian Saffron

Note Profile

Botanical

About

Italian saffron smells like saffron with smoke in it. The stigmas of the L'Aquila DOP crop are toasted over almond or oak embers rather than air-dried, and a seller of that exact saffron credits the step with a touch of natural smokiness alongside dried fruit, flowers and hay. The metallic, leathery, hay-like core of saffron is still what you smell first.

Scent Profile

Italian Saffron smells like saffron with smoke worked into it. A woody, hay-like core leads, with dried fruit, flowers and hay alongside it. The metallic, leathery mineral edge of ordinary saffron is still there, underneath a honeyed sweetness and a warm spice note. A touch of natural smokiness comes from toasting the stigmas over almond or oak embers rather than air-drying them.

ScentWheel

Breadthmedium

EnvelopeHeart · ~6h lasting

Family Amber · Musk · Leather, Elemental, Sweet & Gourmand, Spicy

Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.

WorldSee it in Note Island

ScentArt

What is ScentArt?

Origin

Stigmas of Crocus sativus grown in Abruzzo, mainly the Navelli plain near L'Aquila. The DOP process removes the stigmas, sieves them and toasts them over embers of almond or oak wood. Roasting cuts the weight to a sixth of the fresh stigmas, leaving 5 to 10 per cent moisture, and the dried threads are then ground.

Usage in Perfumery

Used as a heart note for the same effect as saffron: a metallic, leathery lift over rose, oud and amber. A natural perfumer who tinctured the Italian material reports it needs blending, sandalwood in his case, because on its own it lacks staying power and body volume. It also stains less than saffron bought in Asia, which matters in a tincture.