Iris de Gris
EDP · 2022
L'Artisan Parfumeur
Note Profile
Pea is the garden pea, Pisum sativum, used as a green vegetal note. It smells of crisp raw pods and shoots, with a damp soil edge under the greenness. It is a different referent from Sweet Pea, which is a flower, and from Blue Pea Flower, which is drunk as a tea. The three share only the English word.
Pea smells crisp and green, like freshly split pods and tender shoots, close to cut grass but rounder and less sharp. Underneath runs an earthy note, closer to garden soil than to root or moss. What sweetness it has is the sweetness of a fresh green thing, not a sugary one, so it stays faint.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Pea sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
There is no commercial pea extract. The note is built as an accord instead, driven by methoxypyrazines of the kind that carry green pepper and galbanum. Fragrantica records the term on 26 perfumes and Parfumo on 6, so it is used, but as a constructed effect rather than a bought material.
Perfumers use pea for a raw garden freshness at the top of the heart, to sharpen a wider green accord rather than to stand alone. It sits with galbanum, green pepper.
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Pea appears prominently.
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