Be My Cookie
EDP · 2024
BORNTOSTANDOUT
Note Profile
Tonquitone is IFF's deer-musk base: animalic and urinous over a clean macrocyclic musk, with ambergris, dry wood and a sweet balsamic tail. It is a fixative first and a smell second, and it anchors leather, chypre and oriental accords.
Tonquitone smells animalic and urinous first, a realistic deer-musk character, but it sits over a cleaner, macrocyclic musk rather than staying feral. An ambergris warmth runs through it, with a dry, woody edge and a sweet, caramel-like balsamic tail closing it out.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Tonquitone™ sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Tonquitone™ is usually built as an accord, a blend of several materials, rather than made from one.
A proprietary compounded base, not a single molecule. Both retailers that sell it list its CAS as 'Mixture'. It was built to reproduce natural deer musk using only macrocyclic and biodegradable materials, and is free of polycyclic and nitro musks. The version in trade is RMS 1018, renamed after the October 2018 raw material shortage, and is also PCMF and DEPR, meaning polycyclic-musk-free with diethyl phthalate removed.
A base fixative with high substantivity. Scentspiracy gives 0.01 to 0.5 per cent for skin warmth and 1 to 2 per cent for feral, civet-toned accords, and reports it 'rounds harsh lactones, extends woody musks, anchors volatile spices'. It pairs with castoreum replacers, costus, indole, civetone and ambrettolide.
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Tonquitone™ appears prominently.
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