Chienoir

Chienoir is the perfume that made BedeauX's name. Amanda Beadle created it as a bespoke scent for an East Sussex vineyard, and it went on to win the artisan prize at the 2018 Art and Olfaction Awards. The brand calls it a vibrant chypre, representing the essence of an English vineyard: mossy woodland, green vines, white flowers and a deep, chalky downland terroir. The ten notes are given together rather than as a pyramid. Oakmoss sits at the centre, with juniper berry and bergamot lifting the opening, neroli and sweet orange adding light, and opoponax and patchouli forming the chypre accord. Pink pepper, tobacco and musk sit behind. Wearers describe a transparent, herbal and green fragrance, with an old-meets-new chypre sensibility, where the citrus flies away after half an hour and a mossy greenness remains. Performance is moderate and divides opinion. Votes are mostly moderate, with some calling wear really short and others very long, and it stays fairly close to the skin. It is at its best in spring and summer, easy for daytime and leisure, and weakest in winter. It is sold in 50 ml at 95 pounds and 100 ml at 140 pounds, and the brand currently lists both as out of stock. It suits anyone who loves oakmoss and wants a natural, understated chypre.