Jacomo Paris 1987 Parfum

F ££ Acquired

Coeur de Parfum / Parfum Rare

by Christian Mathieu

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Jacomo Paris Coeur de Parfum / Parfum Rare is a Parfum launched in 1987, created by Christian Mathieu. Coeur de Parfum / Parfum Rare opens with Bergamot and Cardamom, settles into a heart of Rose, Iris, Geranium, and Carnation, and dries down to a base of Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, and Oakmoss. Jacomo Paris's Coeur de Parfum / Parfum Rare carries an Acquired verdict, a floral-led wear.

This forgotten 80s gem is a masterclass in classic chypre. Forget your modern fruity florals; Coeur de Parfum is for those who crave a sophisticated, powerful, yet surprisingly smooth vintage vibe that's still perfectly wearable today. It's a love affair for chypre enthusiasts.
What our verdicts mean →
  • Sophisticated
  • Classic
  • Elegant
  • Warm
  • Confident
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Coeur de Parfum / Parfum Rare Parfum bottle

Scent Profile

Composition

Timeline

Showing: Overall Blend

Top, heart and base are the brand's own listing, not a timing claim - the industry classifies a note by its character as much as by how fast it fades. Each curve here is modelled from that material's own volatility, so groups can overlap when a house lists long-lasting materials in its heart.

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Performance & Mood

Performance

Longevity
Moderate (4-6h)
Projection
Strong
Intensity
Strong

Mood

Mood Energising
Calming
Character Playful
Serious
Sentiment Uplifting
Brooding

When To Wear

Best Seasons

Best For:
Fall
Also Works:
Spring Winter

A cold-weather scent - best worn in autumn and winter.

Best Occasions

Best For:
Date Formal

Its long-lasting nature and rich, complex profile make it too dominant for a typical office setting. This is a sophisticated scent that truly shines in formal evening wear or on a special date, projecting an aura of classic elegance. It's less suited for casual or sporty activities due to its intense, 'grand perfume' character.

Declarable allergens

We derive these from the materials behind this fragrance's notes, not from the bottle. Each one is likely, not confirmed. The list is partial - the box can name others.

In standard patch-test panels

  • Geraniol from Rose
  • Oakmoss Evernia prunastri extract from Oakmoss

Other declarable allergens

  • Bergamot Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil from Bergamot
  • Bergamot Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil from Bergamot
  • Bergamot Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil from Bergamot
  • Rose geranium Pelargonium Graveolens Oil from Geranium
  • Rose geranium Pelargonium Graveolens Oil from Geranium
  • Sandalwood Santalol from Sandalwood

The large name is the everyday one. The small name is the INCI form on the box, so you can compare the two. Reactions differ between people. A patch-test panel is not a ranking of risk. How we derive this

About

Opens with a sharp, bright burst of bergamot and the distinctive, almost sweaty spice of cardamom. As it settles, a rich, floral heart emerges, dominated by a rosy geranium and spicy carnation, underpinned by earthy coriander. The dry down is pure vintage elegance: a deep, woody blend of sandalwood, vetiver, and robust oakmoss, softened by a touch of labdanum for a subtly animalic, golden warmth. It's a complex journey from sharp spice to smooth, earthy florals.

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Layer

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Complement

Two people, two scents: what sits well beside it when you each wear your own See what pairs well

Where to buy

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Drawn from community reviews and editor-reviewed before publishing on . See our methodology and disclosure policy.