Chypre Fulminare

Chypre Fulminare is the chypre from Naughton and Wilson. Its name is Latin for striking like lightning, and the brand describes a bold, dynamic scent with a sense of strident self-confidence and sophistication. English perfumer John Stephen built it as a chypre in the classic masculine mould. The opening is bright and slightly buttery: lemon, lime and orange with a forward ylang-ylang. Pepper and incense soon move in and smooth the ylang-ylang out, with a leather note that some wearers find dry and others find only faintly in the background. The base is where the chypre shows itself, with oakmoss and vetiver leading, labdanum and ambergris behind them and a trace of castoreum adding an animalic edge. Wearers describe a green, mossy, slightly bitter chypre rather than a fruity one. Longevity is a strength, and most wearers report long wear with projection at arm's length. It belongs to autumn and winter, works through spring, and is a poor choice for summer. It reads best in the evening and for a night out, though wearers also call it a shirt and tie scent for business. The vote is firmly masculine and wearers describe it as mature and old school. Opinion is divided on the opening, which a few find medicinal, so sample it before buying the 100 ml bottle, which the brand lists as awaiting restock.