Amber · Musk · Leather

Tobacco & Hay

Cured tobacco leaf, hay, coumarin, dried grass

tobacco_hay 83 notes 103 materials 2 anchors · thin

What it smells like

Coumarin is the hinge: new-mown hay, cut grass drying in the sun, and the sweetness of cured tobacco. Warm, dry, gently sweet, and as much a foundation of the fougere as lavender is.

Where it stops

Tobacco touches Vanilla through coumarin's sweetness and Leather through cured-leaf dryness. That is why the two so often appear together.

Smells most like

tobacco - and in the same register, straw, cuban cigar.

Notes that load on it

Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.

Materials that carry it

Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.

Materials carrying this facet, with registry number, source terms and regulatory status
Material CAS Terms Status
boronal CAS 3155-71-3 hay, tobacco
alpha-amylcinnamyl isovalerate CAS 7493-80-3 hay, tobacco
coumarin CAS 91-64-5 hay Declarable IFRA
kephalis CAS 36306-87-3 tobacco
safranal CAS 116-26-7 tobacco IFRA
quinoline CAS 91-22-5 tobacco IFRA
isophorone CAS 78-59-1 tobacco IFRA
beta-pinene CAS 127-91-3 hay Declarable
damascenone CAS 23696-85-7 tobacco Declarable IFRA
sclareolide CAS 564-20-5 tobacco
theaspirane CAS 36431-72-8 tobacco
valeric acid CAS 109-52-4 tobacco
benzyl eugenol CAS 57371-42-3 hay
dihydrocarvone CAS 7764-50-3 hay
isolongifolone CAS 23787-90-8 tobacco
isomintlactone CAS 13341-72-5 tobacco IFRA
gamma-damascone CAS 35087-49-1 tobacco IFRA
beta-cyclocitral CAS 432-25-7 tobacco
citronellic acid CAS 502-47-6 tobacco
isoamyl geranate CAS 68133-73-3 hay
methyl nicotinate CAS 93-60-7 tobacco
phenylacetic acid CAS 103-82-2 tobacco
p-tolyl octanoate CAS 59558-23-5 hay
amyl phenylacetate CAS 5137-52-0 tobacco
dihydromintlactone CAS 92015-65-1 tobacco
gamma-caprolactone CAS 695-06-7 tobacco
gamma-heptalactone CAS 105-21-5 hay
butyl phenylacetate CAS 122-43-0 hay
gamma-valerolactone CAS 108-29-2 tobacco
megastigmatrienone a CAS 13215-88-8 tobacco

Showing 30 of 103. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.

Reading the two flags

Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.

The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.

Anchor terms

A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.

Direct Terms that mean this facet outright
  • hay
  • tobacco
Partial Terms that lean this way but also load elsewhere
  • coumarinic
  • tonka
Thinly anchored

This facet rests on 2 direct terms, which makes it one of the more likely to move when the crosswalk is revised or a better source is found. It is flagged here rather than presented as equal in weight to a facet held up by nine.

The rest of Amber · Musk · Leather

The other facets in this family. A note can load on any of them at the same time as this one, so they are neighbours rather than alternatives.

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