What it smells like
Modern white musks are large synthetic molecules that read as clean, soft and close to the body. They are also the most common anosmia in perfumery. A meaningful share of people cannot smell some of them at all.
Clean Musk and Animalic were a single thing before synthesis. They are held apart now because they behave as opposites: one signals washed, the other signals unwashed.
skin musk - and in the same register, galaxolide, musk.
Notes that load on it
Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.
-
Habanolide®
Mineral
Base · ~40h
Molecule
-
Musk
Base · ~48h
Animal
14,931
-
Linen
Aquatic
Aldehydic
Mineral
Heart · ~8h
Prepared
40
-
Nirvanolide®
Lactonic
Base · ~30h
Molecule
-
Skin Musk
Base · ~24h
Abstract
67
-
Clean Musk
Base · ~48h
Abstract
7
-
Galaxolide
Base · ~36h
Molecule
5
-
Romandolide
Base · ~36h
Molecule
2
-
Ambretone
Powdery
Base · ~46h
Molecule
-
Clean Notes
Aldehydic
Base · ~24h
Abstract
-
Exaltolide®
Base · ~42h
Molecule
-
Exaltone®
Base · ~40h
Molecule
-
Fresh Laundry
Aldehydic
Base · ~20h
Botanical
-
Jeans
Mineral
Base · ~12h
Abstract
-
Silvanone®
Powdery
Vanilla
Animalic
Base · ~44h
Molecule
-
Sinfonide
Base · ~36h
Molecule
7
-
Cosmone
Powdery
Base · ~24h
Molecule
-
Musk Ketone
Powdery
Base · ~48h
Molecule
-
Ambrettolide
Base · ~24h
Molecule
55
-
Sylkolide
Fruity
Base · ~48h
Molecule
9
Materials that carry it
Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.
| Material | CAS | Terms | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| ebanol | CAS 67801-20-1 | musk | Declarable |
| cosmone | CAS 259854-70-1 | musk | |
| moskene | CAS 116-66-5 | musk | IFRA |
| muscone | CAS 541-91-3 | musk | |
| civetone | CAS 542-46-1 | musk | |
| tonalide | CAS 21145-77-7 | musk | |
| ambrox dl | CAS 3738-00-9 | musk | |
| cashmeran | CAS 33704-61-9 | musk | IFRA |
| muscogene | CAS 40785-62-4 | musk | |
| versalide | CAS 88-29-9 | musk | IFRA |
| galaxolide | CAS 1222-05-5 | musk | Declarable |
| habanolide | CAS 34902-57-3 | musk | |
| phantolide | CAS 15323-35-0 | musk | IFRA |
| traseolide | CAS 68140-48-7 | musk | |
| ambrettolid | CAS 123-69-3 | musk | |
| androstenol | CAS 1153-51-1 | musk | |
| celestolide | CAS 13171-00-1 | musk | |
| musk ketone | CAS 81-14-1 | musk | IFRA |
| musk xylene | CAS 81-15-2 | musk | IFRA |
| lactoscatone | CAS 21280-29-5 | musk | |
| tetradecanal | CAS 124-25-4 | musk | |
| musk ambrette | CAS 83-66-9 | musk | IFRA |
| musk tibetene | CAS 145-39-1 | musk | IFRA |
| isoambrettolide | CAS 28645-51-4 | musk | |
| cyclohexadecanone | CAS 2550-52-9 | musk | IFRA |
| cycloheptadecanone | CAS 3661-77-6 | musk | |
| cyclopentadecanone | CAS 502-72-7 | musk | |
| hydrocinnamic acid | CAS 501-52-0 | musk | |
| ethylene brassylate | CAS 105-95-3 | musk | |
| methyl-delta-ionone | CAS 7784-98-7 | musk |
Showing 30 of 89. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.
Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.
The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.
Anchor terms
A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.
- musk
- clean
- soapy
This facet rests on 1 direct term, which makes it one of the more likely to move when the crosswalk is revised or a better source is found. It is flagged here rather than presented as equal in weight to a facet held up by nine.
The rest of Amber · Musk · Leather
The other facets in this family. A note can load on any of them at the same time as this one, so they are neighbours rather than alternatives.