What it smells like
Indole, skatole, para-cresol, castoreum. In trace these read as warmth, depth and intimacy. In quantity they read exactly as what they are. This is the facet that makes a perfume feel as though it belongs to a person.
Animalic borders White Floral through indole and Honey through phenylacetic acid. Those two bridges are the reason dirty florals exist.
civet - and in the same register, skatole, himalayan deer musk.
Notes that load on it
Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.
-
Goat Hair
Base · ~36h
Animal
-
Skatole
Base · ~30h
Molecule
-
Animalic
Base · ~36h
Abstract
79
-
Black Ambergris
Aquatic
Base · ~42h
Animal
-
Himalayan Deer Musk
Musk
Base · ~42h
Animal
-
Horse Skin
Leather
Base · ~14h
Botanical
-
Muskrat
Musk
Earthy
Base · ~30h
Animal
-
Tonquitone™
Musk
Amber
Base · ~48h
Molecule
-
Siberian Musk
Musk
Base · ~44h
Animal
-
Civet
Musk
Base · ~44h
Animal
260
-
Garlic
Fresh Spice
Heart · ~4.5h
Botanical
-
Skunk Accord
Sulphurous
Base · ~16h
Abstract
-
Costus
Waxy-Fatty
Earthy
Base · ~36h
Botanical
31
-
Civettone
Musk
Base · ~36h
Molecule
2
-
Sweat
Sour
Base · ~12h
Abstract
-
Hyraceum
Leather
Base · ~36h
Animal
16
-
Privet
White Floral
Honey
Heart · ~8h
Botanical
2
-
Sulphur
Smoky
Top · ~2h
Mineral
2
-
Onycha
Mineral
Leather
Aquatic
Base · ~30h
Animal
-
Para-Cresyl Phenyl Acetate
White Floral
Honey
Floral
Base · ~30h
Molecule
Materials that carry it
Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.
| Material | CAS | Terms | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3-methylindole | CAS 83-34-1 | animal, civet, fecal | |
| 6-methylquinoline | CAS 91-62-3 | animal, civet, fecal | |
| indole | CAS 120-72-9 | animal, fecal | |
| lactoscatone | CAS 21280-29-5 | animal, civet | |
| phenylacetic acid | CAS 103-82-2 | animal, civet | |
| p-tolyl octanoate | CAS 59558-23-5 | animal, fecal | |
| 4-methoxybenzoic acid | CAS 100-09-4 | animal, fecal | |
| 1-phenylethenyl acetate | CAS 2206-94-2 | animal, fecal | |
| 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoline | CAS 635-46-1 | animal, civet | |
| 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoline | CAS 91-61-2 | animal, civet | IFRA |
| 7-hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal;1H-indole | CAS 68908-82-7 | animal, fecal | |
| 4,4a,5,9b-tetrahydroindeno[1,2-d][1,3]dioxine | CAS 18096-62-3 | animal, fecal | |
| 7-hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal;3-methyl-1H-indole | CAS 68585-09-1 | animal, fecal | |
| cosmone | CAS 259854-70-1 | animal | |
| muscone | CAS 541-91-3 | animal | |
| civetone | CAS 542-46-1 | animal | |
| p-cresol | CAS 106-44-5 | animal | IFRA |
| piperine | CAS 94-62-2 | animal | |
| muscogene | CAS 40785-62-4 | animal | |
| piperidine | CAS 110-89-4 | animal | |
| putrescine | CAS 110-60-1 | animal | |
| ambrettolid | CAS 123-69-3 | animal | |
| androstenol | CAS 1153-51-1 | animal | |
| celestolide | CAS 13171-00-1 | animal | |
| pyrrolidine | CAS 123-75-1 | animal | |
| benzoic acid | CAS 65-85-0 | urine | |
| oleyl alcohol | CAS 143-28-2 | animal | |
| phenyl acetate | CAS 122-79-2 | animal | |
| guaiyl butyrate | CAS 73003-91-5 | animal | |
| propyl valerate | CAS 141-06-0 | animal |
Showing 30 of 98. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.
Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.
The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.
Anchor terms
A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.
- animal
- animalic
- civet
- fecal
- fecal, like manure
- urine
None
The rest of Amber · Musk · Leather
The other facets in this family. A note can load on any of them at the same time as this one, so they are neighbours rather than alternatives.