Black Ambergris
Note Profile
About
Black ambergris is the least weathered grade of ambergris. It smells much stronger and rawer than the grey or white grades, with a faecal, marine animalic character that the years at sea have not yet softened. Perfumers who use it are after that rawness, not the pale, refined saltiness of aged material.
Scent Profile
Animalic leads and does not share the lead: faecal, humid and warm-bodied, the quality every source names first for unweathered material. Under it an aquatic_ozonic marine facet, salt water and wet shoreline rather than clean sea air. Earthy sits alongside it, damp and slightly waxy. Amber_resinous is present but held back, because the sweet balsamic warmth belongs to the aged grades and this one is described as not announcing itself with sweetness. Mineral is likewise reduced, well below the white grade's sea-stone dryness. Clean_musk rounds the base, the musky facet Ohloff lists for ambergris generally. Below the naming line a dry_woody trace and a faint smoky mustiness.
ScentWheel
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Origin
Ambergris forms in the digestive tract of the sperm whale and is expelled at sea. Fresh or lightly weathered pieces are black to dark brown and waxy. Salt water, air and sunlight oxidise the material over months or years, lightening it through brown and grey to pale or white and softening the smell. Black is the start of that process, not a separate substance. Colour is a clue to maturation, not a fixed grade, and individual pieces vary.
Usage in Perfumery
Used as a fixative and a base accent, tinctured in alcohol over weeks. The black grade is chosen when a composition wants an unapologetic animalic-marine depth rather than the clean mineral radiance of aged ambergris. It needs heavy dilution. At any real strength the faecal facet dominates.
Similar Notes
Perfumes featuring Black Ambergris
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Black Ambergris appears prominently.
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