Clue Perfumery

Playful, story-driven indie perfumes hand-made in a Chicago lab with a distinctly Midwestern lens.

About Clue Perfumery

Clue Perfumery is an independent American fragrance studio founded in 2022 by perfumer Laura Oberwetter and designer Caleb Vanden Boom, who have been friends since childhood. The brand grew out of Oberwetter’s pandemic-era experiments with scent after taking a class at the Institute for Art and Olfaction, and quickly evolved into a full line once Vanden Boom joined to develop the visual and graphic identity. Clue operates from a combined lab and studio in Chicago, Illinois, where its fragrances are composed, formulated, bottled, assembled, and shipped by hand.

Clue’s early catalog launched with three scents - Morel Map, Warm Bulb, and With the Candlestick - which set the tone for its offbeat, narrative style of perfumery. Later additions such as Dandelion Butter continue this direction, often referencing specific Midwestern places and details, including forests in Wisconsin and other regional motifs. The brand explicitly leans away from traditional French perfume tropes, instead using unusual visual and conceptual references such as cartoons and illustrated objects as starting points for compositions.

All of Clue’s fragrances are produced in-house, and the line is largely vegan, with Dandelion Butter noted by the brand as an exception due to the use of butter CO2 extract. Oberwetter has described her approach as a balance of experimental accords with the “wearable and beautiful appeals of modern perfumery,” aiming to depict scenes that mainstream fragrance often ignores or considers too mundane. Alongside its retail line, Clue also develops bespoke scents through its Clue Labs project, including collaborations such as a custom perfume for The Hoxton Hotel in Chicago.

At a Glance

The Brand

Founded 2022
Founder Laura Oberwetter and Caleb Vanden Boom
Country United States
Category Indie

Scent Personality

Sweetness
Moderate
Freshness
Moderate
Boldness
High
Uniqueness
Very High

Worth It?

Price £££
Value
High
Accessibility
Moderate

Scent DNA

Woody Gourmand Green Spicy Experimental
  • Clue scents tend to start from odd, concrete references - mushrooms, warm light bulbs, dandelion butter - and translate them into surprisingly wearable compositions
  • Expect familiar perfume structures twisted with unusual accords, textural contrasts, and a strong sense of place, often rooted in Midwestern landscapes and everyday objects
  • The writing, visuals, and scent all reinforce a slightly surreal, storybook tone that makes the brand easy to recognize across releases

Typical Performance

Longevity
Moderate
Projection
Moderate

Positioning

A indie, premium house known for woody compositions.

How It Compares

  • Conceptual/narrative style similar to D.S. & Durga
  • More experimental and indie than Le Labo
  • Less traditionally luxurious and polished than Chanel
  • Quirkier and more story-focused than Byredo

Who It's For

Best For

  • Indie fragrance collectors
  • Fans of story-driven, conceptual scents
  • Wearers who enjoy offbeat yet wearable compositions
  • Daytime and creative work environments
  • People looking for non-traditional, un-gendered perfumes

Strengths & Weaknesses

Strengths

  • Strong creative direction tying scent, text, and visuals together
  • Distinctive concepts that stand out in the indie space
  • In-house formulation and hand production in Chicago
  • Good balance between experimental ideas and real-world wearability

Weaknesses

  • Limited distribution and small-batch production means frequent sell-outs
  • Concept-heavy marketing may intimidate beginners seeking simple note lists
  • Some compositions can read quirky or unusual compared to mainstream designer scents

Brand Evolution

Clue began with three debut scents that established its core themes of Midwestern references, surreal imagery, and hand-made production. As the brand has grown, it has expanded both its fragrance lineup and its infrastructure, moving from blending and shipping out of a studio apartment to a dedicated lab space in Chicago. The creation of Clue Labs for custom collaborations suggests a parallel path alongside the core collection, allowing the founders to test new ideas with partners while maintaining the brand’s experimental edge.

Quick Verdict

Clue Perfumery is one of the more original young indie houses, with real coherence between concept, scent, and design. If you enjoy off-center but thoughtful fragrances and do not mind small-batch availability quirks, it is well worth seeking out.

Perfumers

Clue Perfumery Perfumes