Birch Leaf Patchouli & Cedarwood
Extrait · 2014
Chandrika Thomas London
Note Profile
Birch Leaf is a green, herbaceous perfumery base and not an extract of a leaf. What perfumers buy under the name is Givaudan's Birch Leaf Givco 166, a reconstruction of the smell of birch twigs heated on a sauna stove. It is potent and diffusive, and it carries a light spice edge alongside the green.
Sharply green and herbaceous, the smell of crushed foliage rather than of wood or bark. Under the green sits a fresh spice the maker's resellers name as cardamom and coriander seed, and a thin dry woody edge from the twig. A faint dry-leaf tea nuance shows late. There is no smoke, no leather and no wintergreen in it.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Birch Leaf sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Birch Leaf is usually built as an accord, a blend of several materials, rather than made from one.
No standard commercial Betula pendula leaf absolute exists. In the early 1980s Roman Kaiser's team at Givaudan studied the fragrance of heated birch twigs in a traditional Scandinavian sauna and built Birch Leaf Givco 166 from it. Givaudan reformulated the base as version 166/2 in December 2019, and it is resold in Europe as a speciality, often pre-diluted in DPG.
A top-to-heart green modifier. It gives woody and fougere compositions lift and an outdoor freshness, and it is the birch-leaf accord in Calvin Klein's Escape for Men. It is strong: a reseller describes it as effective from the smallest traces through to 1 per cent, so it is normally evaluated as a dilution.
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Birch Leaf appears prominently.
Extrait · 2014
Chandrika Thomas London
EDP · 2013
Rancé 1795
EDP
Luxe Fragrances
EDP · 2024
Michael Malul London
Parfum · 2015
Meo Fusciuni
EDT
LA RIVE
EDP · 2024
Faberlic
EDP · 2012
Arquiste
EDT · 2005
Mexx
EDP · 2023
Clue Perfumery
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