Bitter Rose, Broken Spear
EDP · 2013
D.S. & Durga
Acquired
Ember
Note Profile
About
Ember is a fantasy note: a fire that has gone out but is still hot. It smells of smoke without flame, settling into resin, vanilla and warm spice. It is softer and sweeter than burning wood and warmer than charcoal.
Scent Profile
Ember smells of warm, glowing smoke rather than sharp burning wood, closer to a dying fire than an open flame. A resinous amber warmth, like labdanum and balsam, keeps it from reading as plain ash. Dry, spent-wood and a cured tobacco-leaf note sit underneath, with warm clove and cinnamon spice threaded through. It finishes sweet and vanillic, with a faint earthy, cooled-ground trace low in the base.
ScentWheel
Breadthbroad
EnvelopeBase · ~30h lasting
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
ScentArt
Seen in
Tap a perfume to see where Ember sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Origin
No single material. Builds that carry the name reach the same place from different directions. One uses labdanum, vetiver, patchouli, frankincense, black pepper, cardamom and ambrette. Another uses tobacco, dried fruit, ginger, clove, cinnamon, tonka and bourbon vanilla. Trade descriptions of the smoky accord family name glowing embers as one of its registers, alongside dry wood smoke, incense, burnt leaves and tobacco.
Usage in Perfumery
A base accord for cosy, autumnal and hearth-themed compositions. Resins are what keep it from reading as simply burnt or ashy, so it is built resin-first and smoke-second. It sits under tobacco, dried fruit and gourmand materials, which turn the smoke towards toasted sweetness.
Similar Notes
Perfumes featuring Ember
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Ember appears prominently.