Waterways Spell
Extrait
Agarthi
Note Profile
In perfumery, lichen imparts a rich, earthy aroma often described as damp, green, and woody, reminiscent of a forest floor after rain. It has subtle leathery and slightly musty nuances, adding depth and complexity to chypre and fougère compositions. Lichen notes evoke a natural, wild freshness and are prized for their grounding, mossy character.
Lichen in perfumery presents a complex aroma that is earthy, damp, and green, with pronounced woody undertones and subtle leathery, musty facets. Its scent evokes the atmosphere of a shaded forest floor after rainfall, developing into a soft, mossy richness as it dries down. The note is valued for its ability to impart naturalistic depth and a cool, mineral freshness.
Lichen used in fragrance is most commonly derived from oakmoss (Evernia prunastri) and tree moss (Pseudevernia furfuracea), which are harvested from the bark of trees in temperate forests, particularly in Europe and the Balkans. The raw material is extracted using solvents to produce an absolute, which is then further refined for use in perfumery. Due to allergenic concerns, modern usage often involves purified extracts or synthetic substitutes.
Perfumers typically employ lichen notes as a base component, where they provide lasting depth and a grounding effect in chypre, fougère, and woody compositions. Lichen blends well with citrus, floral, and resinous notes, enhancing structure and complexity. Its role is to anchor lighter ingredients and impart a signature mossy character.
Green
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Lichen appears prominently.