Scheherazade
Extrait · 2023
Bortnikoff
Note Profile
Malaysian oud is natural oud (agarwood) oil from Aquilaria malaccensis grown in Malaysia. It is less barnyard and less medicinal than Indian oud. Good oils are fruity and honeyed over dark resinous wood, with damp earth, a little smoke and a leather undertone. The profile varies widely from oil to oil.
Malaysian oud opens on resinous wood with a cool, slightly camphor-like green edge and a whisper of smoke. Dark, polished wood follows, with plummy fruit and a gentle honeyed sweetness. Damp earth and a soft leather note sit underneath. It is less barnyard than Indian oud. The drydown stays woody and resinous for many hours.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Malaysian Oud sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Perfumers can make Malaysian Oud from this natural extract.
Smell words come from published sources.
A given perfume with this note may use this material, or something else.
The oil comes from agarwood: heartwood of Aquilaria malaccensis that has turned dark and resinous in response to infection. The wood is chipped and distilled. Peninsular Malaysian and Bornean oils smell different, and distillers can steer an oil towards a Cambodian or Kinam style, so the label names a style as much as a place.
Perfumers use Malaysian oud as a base note for depth, long wear and an oud signature in woody, amber and oriental compositions. It suits fragrances that want oud without strong animalic harshness. It pairs with leather, amber, incense and balsamic resins, and contrasts well with florals and citrus.
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Malaysian Oud appears prominently.
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