Alegria de Vivir
EDP · 2022
Carolina Herrera
Note Profile
Steam is odourless, so this note is a proxy for what steam heats rather than for steam itself. What perfumers reach for is hot metal, hot stone and hot clean cloth. It is a dry, metallic effect, not a wet one, which is what separates it from the water accords.
Steam accord smells of hot metal and heated stone, a dry mineral effect rather than a wet one. Underneath is the smell of laundered cloth fresh from an iron, a clean musk warmth. A dry, woody base and an amber-resinous depth sit beneath that. A cooling, mentholic lift shows on top, close to a sauna's eucalyptus, and a thin trace of humid air runs through the whole thing.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Steam Accord sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
An abstract accord with no raw material behind it. No manufacturer publishes a steam base. Perfumers build it case by case from aldehydic musks and woody ambers - Habanolide for the ironing effect, Aldambre for a stronger hot-metal version, Aldehyde C11 over the top - and from sauna materials such as eucalyptus, cedarwood and Givaudan's Birch Leaf Givco. Aldambre's supplier describes it as a steam iron pressing clean linen alongside sun-bleached driftwood and heated granite.
Used to place a scene rather than to carry a fragrance: a laundry room, a hammam, a sauna. It sits in the heart, under citrus or eucalyptus tops and over musks. Perfumers also use it to warm an aquatic composition without adding sweetness.
Perfumers known for using Steam Accord include
Caitlin Hayes
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Steam Accord appears prominently.
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