Black Osmanthus

Black Osmanthus is a natural Eau de Parfum that takes a white flower and darkens it. The brand tells of nectar-covered petals turning wild after nightfall, with deep velvet and warm leather, and the scent keeps that promise: it is a smoky leather first and a floral second. The opening is dry and peppery, with a flash of saffron that fades on skin. The heart is spiced and floral, built from osmanthus, Indian jasmine and tuberose, though wearers say the osmanthus is less a flower than a leathery shadow. The base is the main event: leather, blackwood and smoke with a hit of rum, then myrrh, patchouli, oakmoss and a little sandalwood. The drydown leans on myrrh, savoury and slightly salty, and after the first minutes the whole thing rounds out and becomes easier to wear. At Eau de Parfum strength it lasts for many hours and projects strongly, so a light hand is wise. It belongs to autumn and winter and to evenings, and it is a poor choice for a quiet office, a hot day or the gym. The mood is dark, dry and unsweet. Most voters love or like it, but four of fourteen dislike it and one hates it, which is typical of a leather this daring. It suits anyone who wants an artistic, dirty-edged leather rather than a pretty flower, and it is worth testing on skin before buying.