Eclipse

Eclipse opens with a flash of colour. Saffron brings a leathery spice, blackcurrant adds a tart, juicy darkness, and bergamot and lemon give the first moments a little lift before the richness arrives. The heart is velvety. Plum is ripe and slightly jammy, praline adds a toasted, nutty sweetness, and oak gives it structure, like a barrel that has held something fine. The mix feels decadent, but the wood keeps it from being syrupy. The base turns smoky. Oud takes the lead with its dark, resinous depth, patchouli adds an earthy, chocolatey note, and papyrus gives a dry, papery woodiness that keeps the finish clean and slow to fade. As a 30 percent extrait, it is built to last, and a couple of sprays will fill a room. Save it for evenings, special occasions and cold-weather days when you want a strong presence. Bottom line: a magnetic amber-gourmand with oud depth and plenty of staying power.